Dogs & Cats

All Animals within the State of Western Australia under the Dog Act 1976 must be registered and microchipped once they have reached the age of 12 weeks.

As Microchipping is now compulsory along with Registration- please ensure you complete a registration form. All relevant documentation must be attached to your new registration form - proof of sterilisation, Microchipping or any statutory declarations.
Please note: Registration forms that are not completed or signed with the relevant documents attached will not be processed.

To submit a new registration form please email enquiries@kalamunda.wa.gov.au, post to PO Box 42, Kalamunda WA 6926. Alternatively you can visit us in person at 2 Railway Road., Kalamunda, Monday- Friday 08.30am-5.00pm

To renew your registration, please post or email back the renewal form attached with your payment details.  If you do not want to attach your details, please advise the City's Administration Officers and they will be happy to process that for you over the phone. 

Please note, the City cannot renew a registration if it is not signed by the Authorised owner or Delegate. 

Change of Details/ Change of Ownership

To update your animals details including change of address, contact information, sterilisation status or change of ownership please fill out a change of details form. If you are changing ownership, both the previous owner and the new owner must sign this document before it can be processed into the new owner’s details.

NOTE: This form is only if you are currently a resident of Kalamunda.  Further, this form is not to be used if you are transferring into the City or for sterilisation refunds. 

Transferring Dogs: To transfer the ownership of an Animal please complete an animal registration form and tick the box ‘Transfer’. 

*Please note, if transferring animals into the City of Kalamunda from another local government, ensure the registration information is updated prior to the transfer being undertaken. Proof of current registration from the relevant local government authority will be required. Additionally, if applicable, proof of sterilisation or a completed statutory declaration must also be provided to process the transfer.

Puppies/ Breeders- Under the Dog Act 1976 S26B. Transfer of ownership of unmicrochipped dogs, it is an offence to sell and rehome a dog that is unmicrochipped this includes puppies.  For further information please refer to the Dog Act 1976.

Note: It is the responsibility of the seller/owner selling or transferring a microchipped animal to update all microchip details with the respective microchip company,

Registration Refunds

If you have previously registered your dog and have had your dog sterilised within the registration period, in some cases you may be entitled to a proportionate refund.

There is no refund in the unfortunate event that your dog is now deceased or if your dog is leaving or has left the state.

Refunds are not transferrable if dogs ownership changes.

To request a refund, please download and complete Sterilisation Refund Request application form.  Please submit the completed application form via email to enquiries@kalamunda.wa.gov.au or drop off at our Administration Centre located at 2 Railway Road, Kalamunda during business hours.

Please note, refunds can take up to 2 weeks to be processed. 

Fees

Pensioners pay only half of the specified fees on presentation of their valid Pensioner Concession Card- Proof of pension card and person ID is required.

For any new registration made after 31 May, in any year, half of the specified registration fee shall be payable. (Conditions Apply).

Find all registration fees including refunds here

Current legislation allows for property owner’s to keep a maximum of two dogs. In some circumstances, residents may wish to keep more than the prescribed number; however, approval from the City is required.

The Dog Act 1976 allows residents to apply to keep up to six (6) dogs on their premises provided they have the necessary approval from council.

Residents can complete and submit an application to keep more then 2 dogs. A non-refundable fee is charged at the time of lodging your application to cover the costs of processing your application.

NOTE: All dogs must be registered upon submitting this application. Incomplete applications will not be accepted.

All dogs residing or staying at the property for a long period of time must be added onto the application.

A survey of surrounding neighbours is conducted to obtain comments on the application.  

Once the application and the survey forms are assessed, a City Ranger will contact you to organise a date and time to inspect your property.

The City Rangers will also take in account any history recorded against your dogs while reviewing your application.

Note: Application for approval to keep more than the proscribed number of dogs may be withdrawn if the dog owner is proven guilty of an offence under the Dog Act 1976.  

Dog Permitted Exercise Areas

The dog exercise and prohibited areas are currently under review, however existing exercise and prohibited areas are based off the repealed Shire of Kalamunda Dog Local Law 2010 and will remain in effect until further notice.

Exercise areas have been provided by the City to exercise your dog off its leash. Whilst in these areas dogs must be supervised at all times by a person capable of controlling it and a lead should be carried.

Consider the needs of all park users | Clean up after your dog | Dogs must be under effective control at all times.

 

Kalamunda

• Old Railway Reserve: Bordered by Williams, Elizabeth and Tella Streets and Railway Road
• Old Railway Reserve: Between Collins and Lesmurdie Roads
• Old Yorna Road Reserve: Corner of Alpine and Bird Roads
• Jorgensen Park: Bordered by Spring and Crescent Roads

Lesmurdie

• Flora Terrace Reserve: Bordered by Orangedale Road & Walyunga Street
• Seaton Park: Bordered by Fletcher and Lesmurdie Roads
• Hugh Sanderson Reserve: Willingham Drive and Chislehurst Road
• Ray Owen Reserve: South West corner starting Willoughby and Gladys Roads, designated area only

Forrestfield

• Reserve: Adjoining and running parallel to Tonkin Hwy west of Hale Road intersection
• Western Power Easement: Lot 120 Stringybark Drive between Holmes Road and Passiflora Drive
• Federation Gardens: Hartfield Park, designated area

High Wycombe

• Elmore Park: Bordered by Elmore Way and Chipping Drive
• Ollie Worrell Reserve: Bordered by Worrell Avenue and Abernethy Road
• Progress Park: Bordered by Cyril Road and Bandalong Way
• MacKenzie Park: Reserve 29104: bordered by Netherwood Road and Albermarle Way

Gooseberry Hill

• Ledger Road Reserve – Bush Areas: Bordered by Ledger Road, Huntley Street and Longfellow Road
• The Boulevard Reserve: 18 The Boulevard, Gooseberry Hill
  

Walliston

• Old Railway Reserve: Lesmurdie Road East to Kennedya Road
• Western Power Easement: Lot 5 Lawnbrook Road West, bordered by Palmateer Drive from Halleendale Road
• Alan Anderson Park: Lot 300 Pomeroy Road corner Lawnbrook Road

Maida Vale

• Booralie Way Reserve: Bordered by Booralie Way and Tambulan Road
• Norwood Reserve: Bordered by Norwood and Hawtin Roads and Hewson Place
• Western Power Easement: Lot 3, Kalamunda Rd - eastern side of Roe Hwy bordering Maida Vale Road

Wattle Grove

• Reserve: Bordered by Lenihan Corner, St John Road and The Promenande

Dog Prohibited Areas

The Perth Hills area is home to many National and Regional Parks, many of which do not permit dogs (with exception of approved assistance dogs) to protect indigenous fauna and flora and as consideration of the rights of other park users. Permitted areas for dogs in National and Regional Parks and campgrounds are listed on the Parks and Wildlife Service website.

In addition, dogs are strictly not allowed in the following areas:

Kalamunda

• Stirk Park: Entire park
• Kostera Oval: Turf grassed area

Lesmurdie

• Ray Owen Reserve: Turf grassed oval contained within steel post and rail fence

Forrestfield

• Hartfield Park: whole park except the Federation Gardens area
  Pioneer Park: Turf grassed area

High Wycombe

• Scott Reserve

Maida Vale

• Maida Vale Reserve: Turf grassed area

Whenever in public - unless gazetted 'Dog Exercise Area' - dogs must be on a leash.

Please note a current review of the exercise and prohibited areas is in progress. 

Puppy Socialisation

Just like young children, puppies need an opportunity to learn appropriate social and behaviour skills.

The period of life between four (4) and 16 weeks of age is the most important time for socialisation to people outside the puppy’s immediate family, other dogs, animals and new environments.

A lack of socialisation in this early period can lead to behaviour problems later in life. These can include:

• timidity and fearfulness
• jumping on people
• aggression towards other dogs and people.
  

Positive exposure to new and interesting experiences will stimulate your pup’s mental development and help to develop confidence.

Because of the risk of infectious diseases, puppy socialisation should occur in safe, controlled environments and your puppy should be vaccinated by your veterinarian.

Puppy socialisation groups at veterinary clinics are an excellent way to socialise your puppy.

Socialisation must continue throughout the puppy’s growth; adult dogs require regular activity as well.

Exercise and Play

Providing your dog with enough exercise and play is an important responsibility for dog owners. Exercise is good for your dog’s health, and can help to prevent some behaviour problems. It is also part of the fun of owning a dog.

At least 15-20 minutes should be set aside every day for walking, obedience training and play with your dog, rather than just one long walk at the weekend.

You might break your daily exercise time into 10 minutes before and after work.

The exercise routine should be varied, e.g. A walk, some obedience training, a run, a fetch game with a ball, and time off the leash in approved dog exercise areas. Vary the times when you exercise your dog.

For young energetic dogs, sprinting to fetch the ball uses up a lot of excess energy. Older dogs will benefit from gentle walks and swimming.

Dogs need to exercise their minds as well as their bodies. Obedience training is a good way to provide mental stimulation for your dog.

When walking your dog, time should be allowed for it to explore and sniff, rather than just concentrating on uninterrupted walking.

Parents must not let children walk a dog on their own, unless they are confident that the children can control the dog in any situation that might occur.

Riding a bicycle with the dog running alongside is dangerous for the cyclist and the dog.

Throwing a stick for the dog to fetch is not advisable. Many dogs suffer serious injuries from running with sticks in their mouths.

Do not allow your dog to bite or snap during play. It is difficult for the dog to understand that it is okay to bite sometimes, but not other times.

If your dog is very excitable, short periods of play are best. Have sessions of play, then training, so that the dog learns to stop and start play.

Obedience Training

Training helps you to achieve a fundamental level of control with your dog.

Training helps you to communicate effectively with your dog and thus create a greater bond with it. Socialisation and sociability training is integral to most programs.

Once your dog has done basic obedience training, such as sit at heel, drop on command and recall, you will have a set of commands which you can use to help control your dog in difficult situations. For example, you can use ‘sit/stay’ when waiting to cross the street, when the dog is jumping up on visitors, or when you are answering the front door.

If you go to obedience classes, your dog will be able to socialise with other dogs and people in a controlled situation. This can help if your dog is timid or aggressive.

Your dog will also learn to follow commands even in the presence of distractions.

You will learn a lot yourself. You cannot train a dog to follow commands if you are not sure what to do yourself.

Obedience training can be fun and interesting for both you and your dog. Small group classes run by experienced obedience instructors will provide the best opportunity for both socialisation and learning.

For further information about training or the behaviour of your dog consult your vet, dog trainer or behaviourist to assist you in this area. 

How to stop your dog from wandering

As a dog owner, you MUST make sure that your dog is not able to wander off your property and your property is secure. This means that you must use one of the methods described below to keep your dog at home.

If you allow your dog to wander, it may be impounded and fees will apply to collect your dog, you may also be liable for infringements. Your dog also runs the risk of being poisoned, injured or killed on the road.

If your dog causes damage or injuries a person or another animal while it is wandering, you can be made liable for any damage caused to person or property.

A dog owner is responsible for the containment of the dog.

For ways to confine your dog to your own property please refer to the City of Kalamunda Dogs Local Law 2022. 

Fences
The type of fence you need will depend on the size and activity level of your dog.

The dog must not be able to jump or climb over, dig under or push through the fence. If your dog is climbing or jumping over the fence, you can add an inward sloping extension to the top of the fence. This works better than just trying to make the fence higher.

Alternatively, you can put up a low internal fence, about a metre in from your boundary fence. This stops the dog getting a “run up” at the fence, or getting into position to jump up at the fence.

If the dog is digging out, you may need to dig a trench around the bottom of the fence and fill it with concrete or attach a strip of chicken wire to the bottom of the fence and bury it.

Electronic fencing: Boundary fencing/collars are a good way to prevent your dog from getting close to your solid fence to prevent digging climbing or jumping

NOTE!  Electronic collars are to be used in conjunction with an external fence, barrier, they are not to be used as the only source of a confinement methods. 

Self-latching gates

Self-latching gates should be installed to prevent the gates being left open accidentally.

Padlock gates

Padlock any gates that the dog has access to, this will prevent anyone letting the dog out by accident or intentionally.

Pen or compound

When fencing the whole yard is difficult, dogs may be kept in a pen or compound. These need to be suitable for the size, breed and comply with Animal Welfare regulations/bylaws.  It is recommended to be built in a quiet, sheltered area. Do not build the pen or compound near your neighbour’s fence or a public footpath.

A concrete base is better than dirt as it is easier to keep clean and prevents digging out.

Dogs kept in a pen or compound MUST be exercised regularly.

Running wire

This is a wire run between two supports. The dog is attached to the wire by a chain lead which slides along the wire, allowing the dog to walk up and down. DO NOT attach the wire to the fence, or close to the fence, as the dog may jump over the fence and strangle itself.

If the dog gets tangled around the supports, place a block near each end of the wire to prevent the dog from getting too close to the supports.

If you use a running wire, you must still have proper fences to keep your dog in. You are not allowed to use a running wire as your only means to restrain the dog.

Tethering

Tethering your dog on a rope or chain is not recommended, as the dog can easily get tangled and can result in a barking problem or injuring itself. You must still have a proper fence even if your dog is tethered on a rope or chain.

Problems with confinement

Dogs which are not used to being confined, or which are confined too long, may cause problems. They may begin to bark too much, or may damage property or injure themselves trying to escape.

Avoiding Confinement Problems

• Gradually get the dog used to confinement by keeping it in for short periods of time to begin with, first with the owner still at home and later when the owner goes out. Slowly increase the length of time in which the dog is confined.
• Play with your dog and feed it in its enclosure, so it doesn’t think the enclosure is a punishment.
• Make sure the enclosure is safe and secure.
• Place the enclosure in a quiet area of the property.
• Ensure that the dog has shelter, water, toys and is comfortable.
• If the dog barks or tries to get out, give a firm command such as “No”.
• Praise the dog if it is quiet.
• Only let the dog out again when it is not barking.
• If your dog does not respond to your commands, it may require further obedience training
  

All other forms of containment besides a compound and/or adequate fencing should be subject to a behaviourist assessment to better assist your dog and his/her needs. 

As the Owner of a Dog it is your responsibility to ensure your dog is not creating a nuisance by barking excessively.

Even though barking is a dogs natural form of communication, there are still laws relating to nuisance barking under the Dog Act 1976

If your neighbour(s) advise you that your dog is barking excessively, do not ignore the matter. There are many effective and humane ways to control excessive barking.
If you keep your neighbour(s) updated on the measures you are taking to control your dog’s behaviour, they may be able to provide valuable feedback.

To seek assistance with a barking complaint please contact the City of Kalamunda’s Rangers for further information (08) 9257 9999 or speak with your local vets, animal behaviourist, dog trainers or organisation which specialise in reducing barking  or are providers of anti-barking products.

Tips for your barking dog

Some simple tips that may be helpful

• Make sure you do not reward your dog for barking too much. Do not let the dog inside or give it attention when it barks, instead, give the dog attention when it is quiet
• If your dog is barking at people or noises on the other side of a fence, move your dog to another part of the yard, or put up a barrier to keep the dog away from that area
• A radio playing softly may help to block any noise that your dog is barking at. Place the radio between your dog and the noise
• If your dog barks at regular disturbances such as children walking to school or rubbish trucks, keep your dog inside or in an enclosed area during these times
• If your dog races along a path or fence barking at passing distractions, put barriers or obstacles in the dog’s way to slow it down
• Ensure your dog has adequate exercise and obedience training
• Make sure your dog has food, water and shelter from the weather
• If your dog is barking at people it can see passing by, try blocking your dog’s view
• An anti-barking collar may be useful for some, but not all, barking dogs. Ask your veterinarian for details
• Teach your dog to stop barking on command. When your dog is barking give a firm command such as “cease” and call the dog to you. Praise your dog when it stops barking. If you have trouble getting your dog’s attention, try making a loud noise. If your dog still doesn’t listen, then it may be necessary for further obedience training
• Seek the assistance of a dog training specialist

Dogs bark for many reasons and if these simple tips don’t help you, seek professional advice. The majority of barking issues can be resolved by taking action early.

Failure to address Nuisance Barking can result in further action.

Common myths

• MYTH 1 - A dog that barks a lot is a good watch dog.FALSE: Dogs that bark excessively make poor security systems, as neighbours often ignore the barking.
• MYTH 2 - My dog does not bark when I am at home, so it does not bark when I am out.FALSE: Many dogs bark because of anxiety and isolation. Most complaints are about dogs which bark when their owners are not home.
• MYTH 3 - It is natural for dogs to bark a lot.FALSE: Barking is one of the dog’s main ways of communicating. However, it is not normal for a dog to bark at every noise or every passer-by, nor to bark for long periods of time.
  
• MYTH 4 - Dogs that bark because they are lonely need another dog for company.FALSE: Getting a second dog does not usually prevent or fix a barking problem. You may just end up with two barking problems.
• MYTH 5 - Dogs only bark too much if they are teased, bored or not exercised.FALSE: Dogs bark for many reasons including breeding, inappropriate confinement, passing distractions, isolation, guarding, anxiety, discomfort and attention seeking. It is important to work out why your dog is barking before the problem can be solved.

Lodging a complaint

If you would like to report a barking issue please contact the City of Kalamunda’s Community Safety (Ranger) Team on (08) 9257 9999 or email enquiries@kalamunda.wa.gov.au. 

Note: Anonymous barking complaints will not be accepted, to lodge a complaint you are required to provide:

• your Name
• your address
• your contact number
• brief description of the barking (times, specific dates)
• the address in which is causing a nuisance (required).

Other Resources

For more information on the role of local governments in dealing with barking dogs, please refer to the Department of Local Government, Sport and Cultural Industries’ Best Practice Guideline on the Identification, Investigation and Handling of Nuisance Dogs

A Dog does not have to bite or injure another party to be considered a dog attack.

The City of Kalamunda encourages to report any dog attacks immediately.

The Community Safety team will need to obtain information about you and the incident that occurred. As each attack is unique in its circumstances Rangers need to assess each incident accordingly.

Reporting a dog attack

Before contacting the Rangers to report an incident it would be beneficial if the following information was readily available for our Customer Relation Officers. 

• your Full Name
• your Address
• your Contact details, home telephone; mobile number
• Date and time of the Dog Attack
• location of the Dog Attack
• witness/s name and contact details (where possible)
• offending dog owner details (where possible)
• detailed summary of the incident.

To report a dog attack, please contact Community Safety Services on (08) 9257 9999

Interpretation - Dog Act 1976

Please note each incident is separate.  If you have not reported past incidents, please advise the officer, however, there is statutory timeframes to investigate events. 

What is an "Attack"

Under the Dog Act 1976, a dog attack includes:
(a) aggressively rushing at or harassing any person or animal; or
(b) biting, or otherwise causing physical injury to, a person or an animal; or
(c) tearing clothing on, or otherwise causing damage to the property of, the person attacked; or
(d) attempting to attack, or behaving in such a manner toward a person as would cause a reasonable person to fear physical injury.

What is Provocation

(i) any teasing, tormenting, or abuse of the dog; or
(ii) any assault on, or act of cruelty towards, the dog; or
(iii) entry without lawful excuse on any land or premises of which the owner of the dog is an occupier or on which the dog is ordinarily kept; or
(iv) any intrusion into or upon any vehicle in which the dog is present; or
(v) any threat to, or attack upon, another person or animal towards whom the dog could reasonably be expected to be protective

Or

(b) on the part of another animal –
(i) an attack on the dog made by any other animal; or
(ii) the entry of that other animal on any land or premises of which the owner of the dog is an occupier or on which the dog is ordinarily kept; or
(iii) any threat to, or attack upon, another person or animal towards whom the dog could reasonably be expected to be protective

Recognising Danger Zones

There are certain times and places where a dog is more likely to be aggressive. Be aware of the following danger zones to avoid being bitten, or, if you are a dog owner, to prevent your dog from biting someone else:

• On the dog owner’s property where a dog may react aggressively to people it sees as intruders, or close to the property which it may also consider to be its territory
• In the car or on the back of a utility where a dog may see the vehicle to be part of its territory
• If the dog is in the car keep the windows up far enough so the dog can’t lunge out and bite someone
• At a local park or street where a dog regularly walks and urinates to mark this area as its territory
• When being walked on a leash, some dogs may be protective of their owners and become aggressive towards people or dogs walking by
• When the dog is near its owner or the owner’s children it may see others as threatening if they come too close
• When the dog is grabbed or pulled by its collar
• When the dog is nervous or feels cornered and can’t run away
• When the dog has a bone or toy, or is near its food or bed

If you have a dog which is aggressive you should seek professional advice before someone is injured.

Aggressive Dogs: Warning Signs

Understanding the body language of dogs can help you realise when a dog is being aggressive before a fight starts. Signs of aggression include:

• slow and deliberate movement when approaching other people or dogs
• a stiff legged walk and ‘tall’ posture
• ears erect and hairs on the back and neck raised tail horizontal or upright (can be wagging!)
• a direct stare
• lifting of the leg and urination
• growling, snarling, curling of the upper lip.

Remember that nervous dogs may become aggressive if they feel threatened or cornered.

If your dog displays aggressive behaviour seek professional advice as your dog’s behaviour is likely to get worse, not better, over time. Consult your veterinarian who may be able to help you, or may refer you to an animal behaviourist. Your dog may also require further socialisation and obedience training.

Don’t wait until someone has been seriously bitten. The sooner you seek help the more easily the problem can be solved.

Why do dogs fight?

Dogs have always fought over food, the right to mate, the position in a pack and in defence of their young or territory. Influencing factors include:

• poor socialisation from a young age
• if a dog is protecting its territory or owner or itself
• being off a leash in public and conflicting with another dog
• if people interfere with the ‘pecking order’ of dogs by trying to treat the dogs as equal
• if a small dog is mistaken by a larger dog as prey
• not being sterilised can make dogs aggressive
• some breeds/dogs have been bred for guarding or fighting abilities.

Deterring Dog Fights

Socialisation with both dogs and people. 

If your dog is on a leash and another dog which is off its leash approaches you, you should leave the area by backing away slowly. If the threatening dog follows you, try telling it to “stay” or “sit”. Small dogs may be picked up and carried as the owner backs away slowly from the other dog.

Do not scream and shout. Do not turn around and run away. Do not move forward or allow your dog to rush forward. Do not strike or kick at the other dog. These actions will only make the other dog more aggressive.

Obedience training is important. This will not only prevent a dog from fighting but will make it easier for the owner to control the dog to prevent a fight, or stop a fight once it has started.

Supervising Dogs Around Children

Dogs and small children should never be left together unsupervised. No matter how good natured the dog is, a dangerous situation could develop if the dog is hurt, frightened, cornered or feels threatened.

Children must not hug and kiss dogs. Many bites on children’s faces result from the child trying to hug a dog.

Children must be taught to handle animals gently and carefully.

Adults supervising dogs around children should be aware of potentially dangerous situations:

• when there is food around
• when a dog is nervous or excited
• when a dog is unwell or in pain
• when a dog has a litter of pups
• when two dogs are playing or fighting together
• when visiting children are around the dog
• when children play in or near the dog’s bed.

Your dog may need to be trained to wear a muzzle for safety if you are uncertain about how the dog will react to children.

Remember to praise and reward your dog for good behaviour. Obedience training is important in helping you to control your dog’s behaviour

Legal Requirements

Ownership of dangerous dogs and restricted breeds are covered under the Dog Act 1976 and Dog Regulations 2013.

The Regulations include provisions relating to dangerous dogs and restricted breeds:

• dogs to wear specified collars indicating a dangerous dog and property access points to display signs indicating dangerous dog
• escape-proof and child-proof fencing
• a requirement for the owner to leash and muzzle the dog while in public places
• persons in charge in public places must not be under 18
• a maximum of two restricted dogs per person without a permit from the Council
• owners must be 18 or over
• compulsory notification of a prospective owner that the dog is a restricted breed dog
• compulsory notification to local government if the dog escapes, dies or there is a change of ownership
• extra powers for seizure and destruction.

An owner who fails to comply with a declaration order on their dog may be fined up to $10,000. A dog owner whose dog attacks a person or another animal may be fined up to $20,000.

Every person liable for the control of a dangerous dog must ensure that the dog —
(a) does not kill a person; and
(b) does not endanger the life of a person.
 A person who contravenes subsection (10) is guilty of a crime. Penalty: imprisonment for 10 years.

Dangerous Dogs

Thousands of dog attacks are reported in Western Australia every year, often resulting in horrific injuries and trauma.

It is the legal responsibility of the dog owner, or the person in charge of the dog, to prevent the dog from chasing or attacking any person or animal, whether they are present or not.

Any dog may bite given the opportunity, particularly if it has not been adequately socialised, is frightened, threatened or dominants. Dogs do not only bite because they have been teased or threatened.

A dog does not have to bite or injure to be declared dangerous.

Early Warning Signs

Your dog at risk of being declared dangerous if it:

• rushes out of the property barking
• lunges at people when being walked on a lead
• growls, snaps, snarls or bites when interacting with people or other animals
  

A dog is more likely to be aggressive in the following situations:

• when the dog is cornered or nervous
• when the dog is eating or is near its toys, bed or kennel
• when the dog is touched or grabbed
• on or near the dog owner’s property
• in the dog owner’s vehicle
• in close proximity to the dog owner, or the dog owner’s children.
  

It is important to take sufficient precautions to help prevent a dog attack. These include –

• frequently socialising your dog with other dogs and people
• adequately training your dog so it always follows your command
  

If your dog displays early warning signs of aggression, seek professional assistance to help prevent possible attacks in the future.

Restricted Breeds

Under the legislation, a “restricted breed dog” is defined as a breed whose of dog listed in the Dog Regulations 2013.   

The Breeds listed are: 

• dogo Argentino (Argentinian fighting dog)
• fila Brasileiro (Brazilian fighting dog)
• Japanese tosa
• American pit bull terrier
• perro de presa Canario
• presa Canario
• Pit bull terrier breeds or any crosses. 
  

For further information please see Dog Act Amendment 2013 or Dog Regulations 2013

The regulations also provide for a restricted breed dog to include any dog of a mixed breed that visibly contains any of the above prohibited breeds.

Where there is any breach of the Dog Regulations 2013 and of the Dog Act 1976, there are provisions for a maximum penalty of $10,000. 

If you would like to authorise a third party to collect your pet from our pound please complete the form below and email to: enquiries@kalamunda.wa.gov.au.

• A4 Forms_Third Party Authorisation to collect animal from pound FINAL